Khyber Pass Railway - Tony Cunnane's Life and Times

This story was written in November 2009

I’ve just been re-reading a fascinating book I found whilst browsing dusty shelves in a bookshop in Rawalpindi when I was last in Pakistan (1997). It's called “Adventure Through Khyber” by Victor Bayley who, 89 years ago this month in 1920, was appointed ‘Executive Engineer in the Railway Department of the Government of India’. His task: to design and supervise the construction of a railway through the Khyber Pass, a railway which would eventually link far off Bombay to the Afghanistan Border at Landi Khana.

It seems that Bayley was surprisingly ignorant of the region and the enormities of his task when he got the job. First of all he had to learn quickly about tribal customs and loyalties. Bayley set up his HQ at Landi Kotal, at the head of the Khyber Pass. Here are a couple of early quotes from his book:

“I was told the tribes were very restive and hostile. They are a wild crowd and, apparently, they’ve sworn to capture and torture any railway officers who dare to start work in their territory.”

“The temperatures are extreme – below freezing in winter and over 120 degrees (Fahrenheit) in summer in the shade – except that there is no shade! Sand fly fever is bad in the summer.”

Before starting work Bayley went to see the Political Officer who told him, “The whole of your railway will lie in No Man’s Land where there is no law and order other than tribal custom. Don’t go out after dusk; this is an absolute rule. Never wander far from the road without an escort. The military will not provide escorts so I’ll arrange for you to have tribal escorts!”

After many disasters, serious illnesses, despair and disillusionment, Bayley completed his task and there was an official opening on 2 November 1925. The Viceroy, the Marquess of Reading, was unable to perform the opening ceremony as planned because his wife was seriously ill.

Sadly, Victor Bayley was also unable to attend because a week or two before the Grand Opening he was sent back to UK seriously ill. At the opening ceremony the high officials took all the credit and Victor Bayley, without whose dedication and skill there would have been no railway, barely got a mention.

October 2010. I received an email from the Great Nephew of Victor Bayley. Here is part of what he told me:

"I know for a fact that after my Great Uncle finished the railway he retired back in England, and spent many years writing Western novels. I never met him as he died before I was born, but I have a copy of his book. It is indeed a fascinating glimpse of life in a part of the world that remains very turbulent."